TOMMY CALDWELL

For most of my life I figured that climbing as much as possible, and trying as hard as possible, was the path to most rapid improvement. These days, as is the fashion, I am dialing in my program a little. I spend more time on the hang board and campus board loosely following the science of training manuals like Rock Prodigy and Gimme Kraft.

I still feel like the foundation of very aspiring climber is the fire of desire. If climbing rules your life and ambition, the details work themselves out.

Gyms are a great social venue as well as the most effective training tool. What they usually lack is the grandiose inspiration. Like everything else in life you have to find the right balance of each.

There is no one-size-fits-all formula. To be a professional climber you have to want it real bad. I think the key is to do what feels genuine and real to you.

I think most anyone could train to get to the summit of the Eiger or Matterhorn, as long as they find the right people to show them how. One arm pull-ups however....That's more of a matter of genetic makeup and lifestyle. I have met 9a climbers that can't do one-arm pull-ups.

For me, Goals are absolutely central to aspiration and therefore motivation. It helps me to have a beacon on the night to focus on. My main challenge these days is finding that family-work-climbing balance. I want to be intentional with my kids every day as well as show them what hard work is all about. I have a constant climbing specific goal matrix orbiting the inner workings of my brain. Everything from a ten second one arm hang on the single pad crimper on the Best maker hang board to first alpine style free ascent of Bla Bla Bla on Bla Bla Bla mountain. I am in the final stages of writing my Memoir. My goal for the last 18 months has been to make that as great as I can.

I am the most motivated by the climbing problems that challenge me to grow beyond what I have known in the past. Of course I get frustrated at times. I have learned to use those moments of frustration to force me to stand back and take the long view.

I do feel like the world of climbing is becoming increasingly externally focused. Less about the heart and more about media impressions and instagram followings. At the end of the day everyone connects with true genuine life experience. I would love to see those long form stories to be brought back to the front of our consciousness.

Today, more than ever, climbing holds a mass appeal. The sport is becoming more main stream. With crowds comes increased impact. I want to see a day where every climber feels a duty to respect and protect our climbing areas. As climbers we have a more intimate relationship with the Natural world. We see the changes. We need to show that we care and therefore become a example of a better cleaner way to live. Climbing has the power to inspire and as climbers we have the ability to shape that narrative. Lets use that to do some good in this world.