|Birthday:||February 7th, 2005|
|Place of residence:||Kharkiv, Ukraine|
|Arm length:||167 cm|
|With EDELRID since:||2018|
I started climbing at 7. Then my mother brought us to a canyon with some easy routes where it all started) The most interesting thing about climbing is the opportunity to travel to new places and meet new people. This is an additional incentive to leave home and finally do something!
Like many other beginners, I looked up to such celebrities as Alex Megos, Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra. But there always was one, who stood above, and that was my mother. As a hero who not only raised me but also instilled love to the rocks and climbing society. I guess it doesn't really affect me that someone looks up to me, cause the main goal in climbing is to have fun and the inner satisfaction, which I gain from just climbing and trying hard.
Since milestones are some kind of life-changing events, they are starting climbing and realising that I am really into it. I could say that every project that is done is a small-ranged milestone for me.
Since most of my climbing time refers to real rocks, there were no huge injuries. Once we came to Margalef and for 1.5 weeks I grew up for about 15 centimetres which caused problems in my back. It was hard to get up from the bed for some time, but at the end of the trip, I was able to climb again. That was the most serious injury so far, and I hope it to stay the same.
Once we had a misunderstanding with the belayer, so he thought about me being on self-protection, which was wrong. The belayer gave up the rope, but luckily left his hand on it, so when I let go of the rope and started to fall down, she managed to squeeze it and hold me in just a couple of meters from the ground. Moral of the story is: don't be lazy and tell about your actions to the belayer a couple of times!
My training schedule is always different, depending on the goal. Although the effectiveness factor is that amount of fun gained throughout the whole process. The more I get it, the faster I improve.
Every person have some kind of an inner standard for himself. How fast should I improve, how strong should I squeeze etc. If your routine fits right in these standards and your satisfaction – it is your perfect routine. Try to balance the amount of work and its efficiency not to train yourself to death.
They could work as a preparation tool and a teammate finder, but actual outdoor climbing is in a totally different league!
Don't wanna brag, but I can do both
When it comes to comps, it is decided that the mental training is the major part of success. Of course, it works the same way on real rocks, but pressure and needed resistance to bear it is much less. So if talking about the competition career, show might work much more than actual skills.
In my opinion everything turns to be possible from the moment person really wants and believes in reaching his goal. Once you believe, you start to work hard. And once you start to work hard, it's only a matter of time to overcome the goal.
Setting goals is the most important thing on the path to improvement. Working in one specific direction is always more efficient than spraying on everything at once. When the goal is set, your mind will also be preparing for solving this particular problem, so the solution would be found faster.
They definitely are motivating me to overcome my limits and push the line further. As I was smaller, the main problem was to find the beta. Regular ones were just too reachy for me, so I looked for additional crimps and trifle bellies. It often took a couple of weeks to get up with the beta, and one more to knock it into one. Although it is ling, I really do enjoy the process!
Since my main path are real rocks, I would like to see crimps more often on the comps. Additionally, due to the large number of volumes and unnatural moves, turns of the body and joints in modern climbing have become much more traumatic. I would really like to reduce these probabilities to a minimum.
The further it goes, the more competitions and real rock societies are to be separated. Fewer and fewer people will be able to combine good results both there and there. Ones who climb only on rocks, living in tents would soon become some kind of animals to indoor climbers. My friend which climbs really good even on a world level competitions, could not believe that I am going to live in a tent for the whole moth throughout the trip. In his eyes I have gone mad. I hope I could travel and climb more as the time goes, as well as combining rocks and competitions.